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Post by Schph Gochi on Feb 22, 2005 23:03:21 GMT 8
Bows to members....
I have some tutorials that I put together on some of the Jedi stuff...
If you would like me to send them to you via e-mail...
just send me a pm...
There is also an extensive tutorial available for Imperial Officer.......I can try to cut/paste/ send that also...
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Post by The SITH OverLORD on Feb 22, 2005 23:14:33 GMT 8
Will appreciate it if you can post the Tutorial for the IMPERIAL OFFICER here for the benefit of the MySciFiFan members who are also good citizens of the Galactic Empire! ;D
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Post by Schph Gochi on Feb 22, 2005 23:48:26 GMT 8
Here is some of the tutorial on the Imperial Officer Costume..
the following is from the CO of the Midwest Garrison who freely shares her information....
Imperial Officer's Uniform F.A.Q.s -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Here are some answers to F.A.Q.s I have been getting about the Imperial officer's uniform:
The pattern = Simplicity #7274 HEAVILY modified! It is a civil war uniform costume. You only need several of the pieces. Jacket back, Jacket front, collar, sleeve and the two pieces for the pants. BUT then you need to modify them.
Here is my explanation of how I did the front of the tunic alterations to Simplicity #7274:
Basically. You know how the front of the actual pattern has one piece on each side that match the lining pieces and the left folds over the right? They are all EXACTLY the same in the existing pattern, right? When I altered the pattern, I drew the overlapping flap to extend it all the way around the neck to the edge of the shoulder seam (add seam allowance) Then I extended the line of the front edge up to the shoulder seam. I reversed this for the under piece, but they will be exactly the same shape, just a mirror reflection. Cut out the lining pieces from this new shape. The lining pieces will always look like this and you can use them as a guide to see how off you are with the front pieces. You will cut out your interfacing to this shape too. This is exactly how much interfacing you will need, but it will be cut into smaller pieces a little later. After you have all of your pieces of the outside fronts of the fabric cut out, you will put the interfacing only in the areas that will be in the front, facing out areas of the jacket.
What you will end up with is 2 separate pieces of fabric on the right side front of the tunic (Upper right yoke/pocket piece and lower right piece) and 3 separate pieces on the left side tunic front (Upper left yoke/pocket piece and lower left piece and the "V" shaped front piece) . The upper yoke/pocket pieces and lower pieces will be an exact mirror image of each other and the "v" shaped piece will be ON TOP of the left side.
The edge of the pocket opening is about just over 1/3rd of the way down the armhole opening. Draw the line where the pocket opening will be. Use a ruler and make the line perpendicular to the center line on the pattern front. I used the size of a pack of cigarettes (Vince smokes and he wanted a place to carry them) to determine how deep the pocket would be. I doubled that measurement and added a seam allowance to the upper piece of the tunic front top pieces. I cut it straight across the entire front, so the pocket area is all the way across the fronts on both sides.
--back to the interfacing--on the right side of the jacket, the interfacing will need to be cut at the pocket line. You will NOT need any interfacing inside the pocket. Mark the pocket line. Fuse you inter facing to the back of the upper and lower right side pieces. On the left side, the interfacing will be in three parts. Cut out the "V" shape. Out of the remainder of the interfacing piece, cut the bottom shape up to the pocket line and the last little piece goes on the inside of the upper left yoke. Fuse 'em! Make sure you are ironing the correct pieces to the correct positions. I did it like this to reduce bulk in the jacket.
----back to the sewing---
I sewed down the parts under the overlap after I had it all together, so the chalk holders and cigarettes wouldn't side around under the center. I left the center part accessible too, as an extra inside pocket to side small flat things into--like a convention badge pocket...... I cut the bottom front piece to the pocket line straight across the whole piece and added a seam allowance. One problem is that the slanted line of the side openings is difficult to cut flat. I DID NOT even attempt to figure out the proper slant and cut the pieces straight down, perpendicularly. I folded the pieces together AFTER I had sewn the top of the pocket seam and understiched the seam allowance to the inside of the pocket opening. I folded it back to gether and then put a line of basting stitches across the top of the pocket to keep the pieces absolutely perfectly lined up together. Then I cut the excess material to match the slanted line of the opening. Basting all of these loose pieces, like the pockets is the only way to get the whole thing to come out clean looking. For the "V" shaped center piece, I folded the left side piece at the marked center line and drew that shape (adding a seam allowance to the left side edge) I sewed the left edge to the completed left side. I drew a line exactly wear the side should be stitched, since the idea is to make this symmetrical with the opening on the right side. Once you have this all done, you can proceed with the directions as described in the pattern about how to put the collar in and put the lining in and put the sleeves in. Remember to cut your collar in a squared off shape. The pattern shows a rounded collar. If you can figure out what the heck I did with the front alterations there, a square collar is a piece of cake.
Queenseamstress asked in an other thread on an other message board:
I totally understand the little pockets, and making the two side pieces bigger,etc. The one thing I am bit uneasy about is the center front piece. I know it is sewn into the left completed side piece-but how do I do this? Do I turn the edge of the front piece under and top stitch it, or what? If the left side is completed and sewn together-I am not sure how to do it...Everything else on your picture is peachy. I will try to do everything else and the sleeves sewn together while I wait to hear from you. Thanks! Amy
My response:
qs--
fold the left side piece down the center and draw/mark that line on the left front top side piece after you have the pocket area sewn, understitched, and then basted back together with a long basting top stitch.
Pin the front "V" shaped piece so the seam will be directly over that line that you just drew/marked. Sew it down from the inside, so the top (right side) of the "V" shape is folded over the top (right side) of the functional opening of the pocket area (which, at the moment is basted shut). After you sew this seam, just press it back in place. I did not top stitch it down on 2 of the jackets I made, but I did on one other. I think it looks better not top stitched, because if you do it there on that seam, you will have to do it on the other side too (the opening side) so that it looks symmetrical. It's up to you though. If your fabric is really puffy or spongy, a row of top stitching may make it look a little sharper.
1) What material did I use?
I used a synthetic blend, a gabardine. The color, weight and texture (and price) were mostly what I paid attention to. The material looks exactly the same on the front and the back, so you can cut out pieces without worrying whether you have it on the "right" side. I washed all of the material in cold water first then tossed the fabric in the dryer. It is really important to me to use fabrics that are easy to care for. Although, I may have the jackets dry-cleaned. I wouldn't use wool, because I want to be able to wear the costumes for extended periods of time. Vince (my husband) wore his olive uniform for two days in a row at DragonCon. He did spill a bit of mustard on the tunic. The spot came right off
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Post by Schph Gochi on Feb 22, 2005 23:50:16 GMT 8
next....the belt.... The belts & buckles are from Tandy leather. $2 for the buckle, ~$18 for the belt. They are regularly about $25 total. They were on sale through the end of February and mine came to less than $20 including shipping. Here is the Tandy site for the belt & buckle again: www.tandyleather.com/DEFAULT.ASP www.tandyleather.com/prod...&aitem=1&m item=2 = the buckle Natural Cowhide Belt Blank 2" #4451800 = the belt you want to get. Black Flexible car bumper paint and flexible clear finish were $5 per can. This paint and finish dries quickly. You can paint it at night and it will be as dry as it is going to get the next morning. I put 2 coats on the outside of the belt and one on the inside and then one coat of the clear finish on the out side.
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Post by Schph Gochi on Feb 22, 2005 23:53:23 GMT 8
the rank insignia
Plexiglas scraps-I cut them out by hand, sanded and filed them and it took a long time. I painted the squares with acrylic paint that I had left over from my Chicago cow project Amidala costume. Then I clear matte lacquered them and attached them to a piece of aluminum flashing that I attached to yet an other piece of Plexiglas. I used "GOOP" to put this together. I lightly sanded the surfaces that needed to stick together. I painted the sides of the base with a silver testors paint marker. Right now I have Velcro on the back to attach it to the tunic. This project was a lot more tedious than I thought! If I would have been able to find my plexi cutter, it may have gone faster or maybe not. The rectangles might not have been as square. I had Vince make his own rank bar. After I had 2 rectangles cut out, I said, "This is hard! I guess I will be a lower rank!" So I decided I am going to be a captain. I only need 6 rectangles. I cut them out by hand using a coping saw. I couldn't cut too fast, or else the plastic would melt from the friction. I got a new "used" plexi cutter from work. I did try it on the next rank bar I make... It was a little easier. I also ended up using the grinding tools on my Dremel to shape the rectangles better.
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Post by The SITH OverLORD on Feb 23, 2005 0:13:17 GMT 8
Thanks for this informative Tutorial. I'm confident that we can use some information here for the upcoming MySciFiFan STAR WARS Gathering on March 13. ;D Oh yesss, please keep these Tutorials coming!
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Post by Haldir on Feb 23, 2005 11:47:39 GMT 8
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Post by Schph Gochi on Feb 23, 2005 17:36:04 GMT 8
Cool....Kathy has them posted there too....I pasted the above from our Midwest Garrison..
The photos that went with this tutorial did not make it in the cut and paste procedure....
Here is one on Jedi Food Capsules
What you will need: Staedtler Liquid Roller Pen Caps Plastruct 7/16” Clear Plastic Hemispheres – part #VHH-14 (Available through http://www.plastruct.com) Spray Primer Epoxy Spray paint-color choice depends on what costume you are making _______________________________________________________________________________
The Jedi food capsules are easily made…but Staedtler Liquid Roller Pens that were used in EP I and II are becoming harder to find. I have heard that they are still available at Staples. Any amount of food capsules is ok…unless you are trying to duplicate a particular Jedi costume, then you would have to have the amount and color combinations of that particular Jedi.
Three Jedi are seen carrying food pellet capsules in Episode I.
Qui-Gon : 12 silver Obi-Wan : 8 gold and 4 silver Anakin : 3 gold, 3 copper, and 3 silver
The first thing that you will need to do is glue a “hemisphere” to the open end of each pen cap. I used a two part epoxy glue. Make sure to let it dry thoroughly. After the glue is dry, you can take fine sandpaper and scuff the entire surface a little. Apply several thin coats of primer (I use gray) to the entire capsule….be careful not to apply primer too thick or you will get nasty runs! If you do get some runs, let the primer dry again and sand the runs. After the primer is dry, just apply several thin coats of whatever metallic paint that have chosen. I have also added a clear “sealer” coat after the color coats, but some of the metallic paint “bleeds”…so do a test of your metallic paint on a scrap piece of plastic first. Take your time with the painting! Apply thin coats and let dry completely between coats. You can choose to paint the pen clip or not…I have done it both ways and it doesn’t really matter either way.
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Post by Administrator on Feb 24, 2005 0:42:07 GMT 8
Due to nature of conversation above, thread subject title has been changed to reflect both Jedi and Imperial officer costumes. Thanks.
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Post by Haldir on Feb 24, 2005 15:19:34 GMT 8
Frankly, can you all in Malaysia find that STAEDTLER Liquid Point 415 ( Red, Yellow or Grey) which is needed for the Jedi Food Pellets? Ps: Having trouble finding STAEDTLER Liquid Point 415? Can always turn to STAEDTLER Gel Roller Point 0.4 which is even better for always hungry Jedis like Young Obi-Wan as bigger.
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