A Quick Malaysian's Guide to Lightsaber Construction
by /scratchbuild
-----
I am writing this for the benefit of any budding lightsaber builders here in Malaysia who is a little confused on how to follow all the online lightsaber tutorials without the benefit of a Radio Shack or Home Depot.
This is all based on my experience, and should only be used as a general guide.
# What makes a lightsaber? #
I always try to construct my lightsabers to the following requirements:
- Basic shape: A 1.5 inch diameter tube, 11 inches long
- Has a blade
- Has an activator button
- Has a belt clip
# Materials for construction #
## The body ##
I like using PVC tubes as a base for all my lightsabers. It's cheap, comes in a lot of different sizes, and is pretty strong. PVC tubes come thin walled, or thick walled. I use thin ones because they are easier to cut with a hacksaw. PVC tubes superglue together very well too.
Also, PVC tubes have a TON of accessories: pipe connectors (same to same, small to large), bends, end caps... All of these are very useful in giving your lightsaber extra shapes and details! You'll also find that these connectors come in radically different shapes depending on the manufacturer, which makes for great variety.
My advice: look for your local hardware store for these and spend some time looking at the connectors. Don't buy the PVC tubes from a big-name hardware store like ACE. They tend to overcharge this kind of raw materials. Go to those small 'uncle/auntie' (U/A) hardware shops.
Once you're used to working with PVC tubes, you can graduate to real metal tubes! You can find these from suppliers in medium industry areas. Be warned that you might have to buy them in bulk. I've got 20 feet of the stuff in my storeroom
You might have seen instructions on using sheet metal to make some parts like Luke's EP4 lightsaber control box. It works, but you have to be careful on the thickness of sheet metal you use. Too soft and it will not last, too hard, and you'll be crying during construction.
You can TRY to wrap sheet metal around a PVC tube to give it a "metallic" look. But unless you can hide the great big seam where the ends meet, I wouldn't recommend it.
## The blade ##
OK, let's just get this out of the way: "NO, you cannot use a flourescent tube!" They are made of glass, and have nasty chemicals in them. Don't think about it.
I have used a variety of different materials for lightsaber blades:
- Broomstick: very cheap. Can buy from U/A hardware shops. Can break very easily. Sandpaper, then spray with flourescent colours.
- Dowel rods: more expensive but made out of higher quality wood. Has a nicer finish. A bit more difficult to find. Look for "wood accessory shops" like those that sell table legs, or floor lining.
- PVC tubes: very cheap. Strong, but CAN SHATTER into sharp shards that can cut and maim. Not recommended. (exploded a tube once while building an air cannon)
- Aluminum tube: Strong. Can BEND. Can probably break into sharp pieces too when whacked hard enough. Hard to find.
- Clear Acrylic tubes: Expensive. Transparent so you can light it up in a variety of ways. Can shatter. Not easy to find. Look for "Signboard shops". Paint with clear paint. Looks nice.
- Polycarbonate: Never tried before. Stronger than acrylic. Is used by Master Replicas themselves. RARE. Ask Douglas
## Lighting the blade ##
If you are using a transparent blade, there are many ways of lighting it up. Some work, some don't:
Cheap yellow bulbs: As seen in normal flashlights. As the light is yellow, it will "mix" with the color of the blade. Yellow + Blue = Green. They really DON'T work.
White LEDs: Go to Pasar Road, look for those guys on the 5-foot way, and find the brightest white LED flashlight that you can fit into a your lightsaber. Rewire the switch to your lightsaber's and you're good to go!
LED Array: Master Replica blades are made with a whole STRING of LEDs in the blade. That's how they get it to light up and down. This is really hard to make by yourself unless you're really handy with a soldering iron.
Electro Luminescent String: There is a shop at the top floor of Sungei Wang that sells EL string. They look ok, but I found that they are not bright enough to shine past a diffuser. I think that Douglas is using a better quality imported string.
Electro Luminescent Sheets: Same shop in Sungei Wang. Buy a really big sheet, roll it up, then insert into a blade. Will be brighter, but man, it's expensive! (note: they can source a 1m long sheet, but it will be a special order, meaning, even MORE expensive)
## The button ##
I like the activator buttons from EP 1 - 2. They have a nice retro look.
If you live near KL, go to Pasar Road. It's off Jalan Tun Razak. Walk around and you'll find ALL the buttons you could ever want. Just drill a hole in your lightsaber, and then insert one of these in.
If you are putting a flashlight into the lightsaber, even better: hook it up to the button and it will really work!
If you want the "touch sensitive" buttons from EP 3 - 6, then you've got options:
For "bubble type" (EP 4). Use the real thing: find an old calculator and use the LED display buttons. If not, go to the better hardware stores (eg. ACE), and look for those little "stick-on transparent feet". Just buy a pack and stick them together.
For "circuit board type" (EP 3, 5, 6): Lots of ways to do this.
- Easy: Get a black piece of acrylic plastic, and 'draw' the circuit patterns on with a 'metallic gold pen'.
- Medium: Hacksaw an old circuit board to size.
- Hard: Acid etch a custom circuit board. Do a quick Google on this. (eg
www.solarcar.arizona.edu/technical/circuit_boards.php). All parts for this available at Pasar Road.
## The belt clip ##
In EP 4 - 6, the belt clips were simple hooks and loops that were connected to the lightsabers. You can make these yourself out of sheet metal and thick wire (or just buy a nice prebuilt chrome loop from a hardware store)
In EP 1 - 3, the belt clips were COVERTEC Clips, which are used for handphone/pda holders. They don't make them anymore, so nevermind. The Covertec clip comprises a plastic nubbin that you bolt on to your lightsaber, which then clips on to a plastic holder which you hook unto your belt.
I just use local cheap-o brand handphone clips that do just the same thing. The problem is that they are now out of style, so you will have to look very hard to find them. Look in handphone shops with old stock
# My toolbox #
I have quite a few tools which I use when building lightsabers, but these are the essentials:
- A hacksaw; buy the "mini" version which looks like a little c-clamp with the blade sticking out. This is a VERY useful to have as you can then stick the saw INTO the inside of the PVC tubing.
- Dymo tape: this tape is actually used in label makers. They come in rolls. Tape it to mark the line you want to cut. Rest the edge of the saw blade against it, then make very slow and controlled cuts. Great way to make straight lines without using a mill. Buy from stationary shops.
- Small metal files: You can buy these from the better hardware shops. They come in a set of 10 or so for only RM10. You will need these to sand down the PVC tubes after you cut them and also to shape the PVC. Also good for removing the embossed labels from PVC parts. You don't want people to think your lightsaber is by "Cap Kapak PVC" do you?
- A table clamp. You need this to hold the tubes and parts when you are sawing or filing. Get this, or buy a "workbench" from Carrefour or Makro.
- Powerdrill: You're going to need this to drill holes for screws, or to drill BIG holes which you can then cut and sand to be BIGGER holes. You can buy el-cheapo brands because the PVC tube isn't going to give that much resistance
- Drill bits: I use drill bits designed for Wood/Metal. They are quite sharp. A small drill bit will go through the PVC with no problems. But the big ones can get "caught" by the PVC. So for drilling really big holes (5mm), I drill a small pilot hole, then hold the big drill bit with a pair of work gloves (see below) and manually bore the hole out.
- Work gloves: These are thick leathery (or suede) gloves to protect your hands. Prevents blisters, defends against stabbing yourself with a file (it HAS happened), and of course, those moments when the hacksaw "skips" out of the groove. They also give your hands a lot of extra grip which is useful when you want to hold and twist PVC pipes and/or accessories. Buy from any hardware store.
# Putting it all together #
If this is your first lightsaber, consider doing a design thats realistic and achievable, but that you have an interest in. For example, Darth Maul or Mace Windu's lightsaber has too much detail for a first try.
Instead, consider doing Vader's, Qui Gon's or EP 1 Obi Wan's lightsaber. Those require simple straight (but diagonal) cuts, and has a reasonable amount of detail.
I use PVC tubing of different diameters. For example, you can construct the handle portion of Obi-Wan's EP1 - 2 lightsaber using 3 PVC tubes of increasing widths:
- The inner tube
- A middle tube with "grooves" cut horizontally across the length of the tube.
- The outer tube with a large segment cut out to expose the 2 inner tubes.
You'll notice that the tubes might not fit perfectly because the widths are too different. No problem: cut a piece of PVC tube LENGTHWISE into a strip. Then use this strip as a SPACER between the tubes. You'll have to experiment to find the correct width of the strip, but it will work.
You can super glue the spacer into the inside of the tube, but I prefer to use bolts so that I can take the whole thing apart for servicing.
Once you have the base put together, add on extra details like extra bolts, switches, decals, and the belt clip. If you wish to paint the lightsaber, I suggest using spray paint which can be bought at most hardware shops for less than RM10 per can.
## Things to consider ##
There is no "correct" way of building a hardware saber. I mean, it's like building a model kit where you have to make your own parts, and come up with your own instructions. Experiment with materials, and create your own designs.
But most of all: try not to kill yourself. Always wear the work gloves, and if you can, goggles. A snapping saw blade can easily fling itself towards your face even if you are careful.
If you're new to lightsaber building, I hope you find this helpful. If you're an old pro, I bet you've got some extra good tips to add.
/scratchbuild